The Lost Grape of Bordeaux

For a wine as drinkable as a Merlot, but surprisingly more complex, I recommend the Carménère. I recently discovered the Daedalian history of this vino and decided to give it a go.

The Carménère grape

From Whence It Came...

Carménère has a compelling narrative. A member of the Cabernet/Merlot family, it was originally harvested mainly in the Bordeaux region of France.

In the late nineteenth century, due to the combination of unsuitable soil and climate (Carménère is notoriously difficult to grow and slow to ripen) and the epidemic of a pesky little root bug called the phylloxera, the Carménère was virtually wiped out of Europe. As luck would have it, several Carménère vines were transplanted to Chilean vineyards in the mid to late 1800's and the varietal thrived.

This serendipitous occurrence, however, wouldn’t be realized until over one-hundred years later. In the mid-1990's, Jean- Michel Boursiquot, a visiting French ampelographer, discovered that the grapes believed to be Merlot were actually Carménère all the while. Chilean vintners, it turns out, were mis-labeling their Carménère, which had been indiscriminately planted among the Merlot vines, as Merlot. Thus, the once key player of the great Bordeaux wine blend, Carménère, is now considered Chile's signature grape. However, in part because of its fickle growing patterns, some would argue that the grape is beginning to fall out of favor with Chilean winemakers.  

Casa Julia Carménère 2005 - Chile

Casa Julia Carménère 2005

With its deep crimson color, medium body and soft tannins the Carménère is still often confused with the Merlot. But with a more attentive palate, the mellow, earthy herbal-ness and slightly exotic undertones that characterize this Chilean gem will distinguish it from the pedestrian Merlot. 

So, if you enjoy a soft Merlot or a spicy Cabernet, you should definitely try the Carménère. This 2005 Casa Julia Carménère, from the Maipo Valley Region, has a dark chocolaty smooth palate, mild tannins, and a smokey finish.

Happy Hour at The WB

Just when you thought it couldn't get better...

The Wine Bar celebrates Happy Hour throughout the week from 4-5pm.

The deal: $4 for a red wine, white wine, or cocktail (all house choice)

With this in mind, Lenora and I decided to meet at the WB to get some work done, partake in a couple happy hour-priced beverages and, eventually, enjoy some dinner. 

The Drinks

The red wine selection for happy hour this evening was, ready for this, a 2002 STG Dry Creek Zinfandel (see last post) from Sonoma County, California. 

I actually enjoyed this Zinfandel a bit more than the Clockspring. The full-bodied, yet not heavy, STG has a more intense cocoa, bittersweet chocolate and dark berry/fruit flavor - mostly blackberries and plums, but for me, the strawberry aroma translated to the palate as well. Not only was the STG uncomplicated with a smooth finish, the structure and crispness was an ideal complement to my meal (keep reading). 

Lenora chose the cocktail option, which was then spontaneously created by Holly (see June 29 entry). It doesn't have a name yet and unfortunately "The Hollypolitan" is already taken. 

I'll call it the Togapolitan

What's in it: Strawberry Stoli, Cointreau, and Grenadine served with an orange garnish. The perfect cocktail for a hot and hazy Saratoga summer afternoon.

The Food

Whether you are a Saratoga native or just visiting for the weekend, if you haven't eaten a meal at The Wine Bar, you are missing out. Innovative and versatile, Executive Chef John Ireland uses fresh, local ingredients to create a menu that complements the wine list (I personally think the whole rigid pairing of wine with food thing is bunk, but I'll leave that for another post) and never disappoints. 

Vegetarian or vegan? Have no fear. With some advance notice, the kitchen will work to accommodate dietary needs.

For dinner tonight, Lenora and I split two small entrees:

The Beef from the menu: 

"Bok choy, golden raisin, pine nut salad, potato mille-feuille, Dijon emulsion"

The Gnocchi from the menu: 

"Chevre emulsion, pancetta, mushroom"

As always, everything was delicious...

What about the Wine?

Since I am the Mayor of The Wine Bar, I suppose I should share a little about my journey into the world of wine and a little about what I’ve learned so far. 

The Beginning of the Affair

I grew up thinking the best wine was consumed from boxes and jugs (who needed a corkscrew?) and served over ice. 

Tragic, I know.

My mother drank White Zinfandel religiously. And yes, we always had a box or jug in the fridge and when we went out to dinner, she ordered this rosé on the rocks. (FYI: This is a no-no. Whether you like White Zinfandel or not, drinking it too cold masks all the flavor.) Even so, I fondly remember sneaking sips of this light, fruity beverage throughout my adolescence. 

By the time I was seventeen - my palate still too young to appreciate the tannic richness of red wine, yet bored with the sugary blush – I somehow (prophetically?) acquired a taste for white wines. I remember my mother, perhaps in an effort to win over her angst ridden and often petulant daughter, returning from the liquor store with a box of Franzia for herself and a bottle of Ernest & Julio Gallo Chardonnay for me (questionable parenting in hindsight).

Thus my early introduction to wine, philistine as it was.

That Was Then…

While I have clearly been drinking and enjoying wine for several years, my true appreciation of and desire to learn about it came about not that long ago.

I used to adore white, abhor reds and I never really did (and still don't) care much for anything in between. But over the years, my choices have certainly changed. In fact, it is now quite rare for anything but a red to part my lips – this may have less to do with my change in taste than with a gluttonous evening I had with a couple bottles of Chardonnay at the turn of the century...but I digress. 

I write all this to say, I'm on a sort of journey here.  For me, The Wine Bar is the site of this evolving exploration...

Bringing it back to The WB

In anticipation of writing about my first encounters with wine, I thought I would select a wine accordingly. And so, as a nod to the now unpalatable sweet blush wine of my youth I decided to try a red Zinfandel. 

My selection: A 2004 certified organic Clockspring Zinfandel from Amador County, California - the grapes from which White Zinfandel was originally born in the 1970’s were from Amador County in California. Close enough, eh?

It took me a while to warm up to this wine. I was hoping for a bit more drama, but Clockspring delivers a fine, drinkable and well-balanced Zinfandel with a lingering spicy, rich cherry (I wish the taste were as impressive as the aroma) and black pepper finish. 

What better way to celebrate freedom?

Independence WB Style

After a short (thank you National holidays), but busy and oddly turbulent work week, Lenora, Patti and I decided to meet up for some much needed libation at the WB. 

Lenora and I in the Smoking Lounge at the WB 

(yes, you can smoke inside(!) - cigarettes and cigars welcome). 

While I could disclose the content of our conversation, Patti offered these words:

I'll (begrudgingly) honor Patti's request. Let's just say we talked about sex, drugs, and the mob...I will leave the details to your imagination...

Martini Time

Since we were celebrating the birth of our country, we thought it most appropriate to honor what journalist and satirist, H.L. Mencken called, "the only American invention as perfect as the sonnet" - The Martini. 

The only place (aside from the WB) to go in Saratoga for this distinctive cocktail is 9 Maple (located at, you guessed it, 9 Maple Avenue). With over 200 martini choices (made with gin, vodka, whiskey, bourbon, tequila, brandy, and cordials) 9 Maple offers everything from classic to sweet dessert style martinis. While the space is small, the hand-carved mahogany bar and dark green walls give the space a comfortable and relaxed vibe. For a modest cover, you can listen to great live jazz music on most Friday and Saturday evenings. 

**Note: patrons must be 23 or older. A welcome prerequisite since Saratoga is a college town, this is a great place to avoid the college students who overwhelm Caroline Street.

The Extra Dirty Ketel One and Espresso Martini

On the menu for Lenora and I tonight:

One of my favorites- the espresso martini. The ingredients: Cold espresso, Absolut Vodka, Kahlua coffee liqueur, and white creme de cacao. The frothy cocktail is garnished with three espresso beans.

Lenora had her old standby - an extra extra dirty Ketel One martini with extra olives. The ingredients (we should all know this one): Ketel One vodka, Dry vermouth, olive juice, and olives (the more, the better).

And she's off...

Getting There

There is nothing like a Saturday night at the Wine Bar. It was actually the second stop of the evening for me. My first was The Parting Glass to pick up (read: rescue) my friends and escort them to The Wine Bar.

 Left to right: Mehtap, Me, & Kate

Left to Right: Ryan, Trevor, Me, & Kiernan

Some Work...

My evening at the WB commenced as I officially welcomed some new clientele. A round of mingling followed.

This is Trevor from East Greenbush, NY. This was his first (but certainly not last) time at the WB.

...And Play...

I eventually settled into a conversation with Holly (a server/cook at the WB). Here are a few highlights:

"The Hollypolitan"

I highly recommend Holly's drink of choice for the evening which I've wittily coined "The Hollypolitan". Created by Amy, the bartender, 'The Hollypolitan' is a twist on the Sex and the City signature Cosmopolitan martini. The ingredients for this pint glass worthy cocktail: Grey Goose Vodka, Cointreau, sour mix, and a splash of cranberry juice. While I rarely stray from the wine list, this drink did not disappoint.

The Hollypolitan: Notice I got an orange garnish (Holly did not).

A Cautionary (Culinary) Tale

While talking with Holly it was hard not to notice her bandaged hand. Perhaps because she held her hand up like this and said, "Look what I did at work tonight."

This is Holly.

Apparently, after a night of injury-free chopping, mincing, and julienning, Holly managed to cut herself while washing her knife. 

Let this be a lesson...one is never safe wielding kitchen utensils. In fact, the only safe knife use is no knife use at all...

The 3 Talent Rule

Holly recently heard from some unknown source that everyone possesses at least three unique talents. We discovered a few of our own (one of each involving our tongues - hmmm).

Holly could think of two - 1. an interesting manipulation of her tongue (see below) and 2. her limitless appetite for hummus (no photo available).

While this looks easy, it's actually quite difficult. Try it.

I also thought of two: 1. a left-eye winking quirk I have that happens (mostly unconsciously) when I am annoyed or disgusted.

Word to the wise: Left winking is always bad. Right winking is always good. ;)

 2. tying cherry stems with my tongue. This one deserves video, but the photo will have to do for now.

I'm still thinking of my third...

The Night's Still Young

Ryan, however...

As the night (and WB) came to a close, Ryan rang in his thirty-something birthday with a somewhat unwelcome chorus of "Happy Birthday".